Nell This can be a big problem. It will push the magazine slightly away from haasleblad body, allowing light to enter between them, which will cause a light leak. If you look at the lower part of the gear, it looks like a tooth is missing. The manual is illustrated with 17 photos and covers the following:. For older C lenses only: After the notches are filed in your magazines, should hasslebladd ever have a light leak or spacing problem, all you have to hasleblad is to look at one of the negatives and see how many notches appear on that negative. With a magazine 16 or 16s, the number 9 will show in the window.
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My camera jammed. What should I do? How often should I have my Hasselblad serviced? This is the question that is most frequently asked of me. Hasselblad recommends that you have your camera serviced every year if it is in constant use, and every two or three years if it gets less use.
Dirt and dust get into your camera, and lubricants dry out and get thick. Having your Hasselblad cleaned and lubricated periodically is the best way to insure that your camera will operate properly, with fewer breakdowns, and lessening the chance of costly repairs in the future. Is this true? Parts for the older C lenses are no longer being manufactured, and the availability of these parts is limited to the existing supply.
I have stocked up on as many of these parts as I can, and I will continue to service the older C lenses as long as my parts supply will permit. Back to Top Why did you replace the flash contact and main spring in my lens? When I overhaul a lens, I usually replace the flash contact and the main spring. Because these are the two parts in the lens shutter that are most likely to break. Replacing them during an overhaul will lessen the chances that they will break during use, causing you problems.
Why did you replace the light trap and nylon stop in my film magazine? When I overhaul a film magazine, I usually replaced the light trap and nylon stop. What are these things and why do they have to be replaced? The light trap is a piece of foam that prevents light from entering the magazine when the dark slide is removed. The foam wears, and eventually will wear to the point that it will allow light to enter the magazine and fog the film when you remove the dark slide.
This is why it is replaced during an overhaul. The nylon stop is a little more complicated. When you wind the body, teeth from a gear start to emerge from this opening. Now look at the rear plate on one of your magazines. You will notice an opening of the same size in the upper left hand corner of the rear plate. In this opening is a gear. If you look at the lower part of the gear, it looks like a tooth is missing.
This space is where the first tooth on the body gear goes into. As you wind the body, the body gear winds this magazine gear, which, in turn, advances the film. Just before the winding cycle of the body has been completed, the gear in the magazine, under spring tension, snaps back to the original position. The nylon stop is what stops the gear in the correct position. As the nylon stop wears, the opening in the magazine gear gets lower and lower.
When this happens, you will feel a binding sensation when you start to wind the body. This is due to the fact that the tooth on the body gear, which used to go into the opening in the magazine gear, is now hitting the first tooth. Not good. It will push the magazine slightly away from the body, allowing light to enter between them, which will cause a light leak. The nylon stop is replaced during an overhaul to prevent this from happening.
Back to Top Why did you replace my dark slide? If you send me a film back for repair and the dark slide is bent or warped, I may replace it without you asking me to. Because a bent or warped dark slide can create problems for you.
A dark slide does a lot more than just prevent light from fogging your film when you remove the film back from the camera body. It also prevents the camera from firing when the dark slide is inserted, and prevents the removal of the film magazine from the camera body when the dark slide is removed.
If the lower left hand corner of the dark slide is bent, it might not activate the release blocking arm that prevents the body from firing with the dark slide in. If this happens, you would be able fire the camera with the dark slide in the film back. If the upper left hand corner of the dark slide is bent, it might not activate the release button blocking arm, which would prevent the film back from attaching to the camera body, or could prevent you from removing the film back from the camera body once it is on.
A bent or warped dark slide can also cause damage to the light trap or the light trap shield, which would result in light leaks. Back to Top Why did you install or replace the brake assembly in my camera body? There is a large, powerful spring in the camera body that opens and closes the rear flaps. The original C bodies, made in and , had an air piston not unlike the piston on your storm door which served as a shock absorber to absorb the shock of the flaps opening and closing.
By absorbing the shock, the brake would prevent the upper flap from cracking at the axle. In late , the entire configuration of the gears, springs and arms in the body was modified, along with the brake assembly.
The new brake assembly was a vast improvement over the original brake, but problems started to develop. There was a large rubber disk in this brake, and, after years of use, the disk began to soften up and get gummy. In the brake assembly was modified.
The rubber disk was replaced by a metal disk with a small rubber "doughnut". It worked great. It was such a good design that, to this day, I have never seen or heard of a body jamming up because of the newer type brake assembly.
But there was another problem. Not with the brake, but with some technicians. They had seen so many bodies jam up from the two previous versions of the brake that, when working on a body, the first thing they would do would be to remove the new style brake.
Without the brake assembly, the shock of the flaps opening and closing was transmitted to the flaps themselves. The upper flap, sooner or later, would start to crack at the axle. There is no way to properly repair a cracked flap; it has to be replaced. Not only is this a pain in the neck job to do, but it is also very expensive. If I replace a brake assembly in your camera body, it is because you had the older style brake.
If I install a brake assembly in your camera body, it is because someone had removed the brake. Back to Top Why did one of my shutter blades break? Have you ever looked into your lens and gasped with horror at the sight of a broken shutter blade? Not a pleasant experience at all. There is, however, something that you can do to lessen the chances of this happening to you A shutter blade is made up of three pieces. First, there is the shutter blade itself. Then, there are two smaller pieces that are riveted to one end of the blade; one on the top and one on the bottom.
There are four holes in this end of the blade. Two of them are the rivet holes. The other two holes are the holes that fit over two pins on the shutter blade ring. As the shutter blade ring moves back and forth, the shutter blades open and close. It is not uncommon for a crack to appear in a blade. It starts at the inner mounting hole and works its way to the inner edge of the blade. Guess what happens next?
The shutter blade will continue to operate properly for quite a long time with that small crack in it. The trouble starts later when the crack starts to go the other way When the crack reaches the other mounting hole, the shutter blade breaks. Because the crack is very small and is hidden by the smaller piece that is riveted to the blade, you cannot see this crack by looking into your lens. You could have a cracked blade waiting to break and not even know it. It is for this reason that I completely disassemble the shutter and check each blade during an overhaul.
Not many technicians take the time to do this. Back to Top Can I use film in my older style Magazine 12? To adapt the non-automatic magazines for film magazine 12 with a serial number of or higher, and magazine 16 and 16s with a serial number of or higher , the observation window at the back of the magazine must first be made light tight. Special plastic plugs are available for this purpose; they go into the rear window from inside the magazine housing.
To fit them, first remove the magazine slide and the spool holder insert. Then push the plug, with the lettering facing outwards, into the rear window from inside.
The inner flange of the plug must be flush with the inside of the window, and the outside surface with the lettering must be level with the rear surface of the opening.
Check that the plug fits smoothly, without gaps. Fit the full film spool and thread the backing paper leader onto the take up spool in the usual way. Turn the take up spool, winding up the paper until a row of dots or a two-ended thick arrow across the back of the paper appears in the middle of the take up spool, as seen from the rear of the spool holder.
Insert the spool holder into the magazine housing and lock it. Turn the transport key on the magazine counter-clockwise to set the film counter to number 1. Next, turn the transport key forward through nine complete turns. With the magazine 12, this should bring the number 7 into the window.
HASSELBLAD 500 SERIES
Nikolrajas Dirt and dust get into your camera, and lubricants dry out and get thick. It should not come off the body with the dark slide removed. You should see a brief, large round flash of light through the lens. I have stocked up on as many of these parts as I can, and I will continue to service the older C lenses as long as my parts supply will permit.
HASSELBLAD Camera Manuals